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Rust repair basics
A cost effective way to repair rust without replacing panels. Will even include tips for filling holes in floor boards.
How To Repair Rust with out Cutting out the Panel
We haven't tried this product but stumbled across it while browsing Harbor Freights website and thought it would be worth mentioning. It may be an even more cost effective alternative in rust repair or removal. Try it and let us know how it works and we will review the product in our next installment.
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There was a time in the auto body repair industry that when faced with rust, it would have to be cut out and replaced. But today, with the chemical and repair material advancements in technologies, most repairs can be made topical without cutting and in most cases it will save time and money. When faced with rust beyond the point of repair and panels that will need to be replaced, JC Whitney's website is a good source for replacement panels, for a diagram of common replacement panel locations click here. The diagram will also take you to their website when clicked.
For rust that is repairable, the information below will help you.
Step 1 (cleaning)
You will notice that cleaning is the step found in most (if not all) auto body repair steps, mainly because cars get dirty both organically and chemically, organics (dirt, dust, trees etc) from the road and chemically from rain, car washes, waxing, armor all, silicones and other products.
Cleaning rust prior to the repair is pretty simple and typically consists of scrapping rust flakes, loose rust powders and in some cases, chemical treating to etch, open pores or to change the chemical make up of the rust itself. The type of products you will use to do your repair will determine the type of cleaning needed and can be found on the products label. One thing is sure though, you don't want loose rust or powdered rust on the surface.
A) Scrape rust with a wire brush (figure 1) either by hand or with a wheel and drill set up. You will need to determine which process to use by the location and accessibility of the rust. Typically scraping by hand with a wire brush be fine in most cases. Make sure to sand the surrounding area about 3 inches outside the rust area.
B) The Por-15 product requires treating with a spray cleaner and allowing it to dry well. Follow that with the Zinc treatment and allow that one to dry as well. Eastwoods® Rust Encapsulator does not. Both can be used in a similar fashion but you will save some nickels with Eastwood.
C) After cleaning and treating the rust. Apply the covering of your choice (Figure 2) using a paint brush, staying inside of the sanded area. Por-15 and Eastwoods® Rust Encapsulator both work well. Eastwood's brand is a bit cheaper and; on principle work the same way. Ideally you want to remove the oxygen source from the rust. During the repair process you will be solving the moisture problem (the main 2 components for rust), applying the black rust encapsulator treatment will solve the oxygen by sealing the rust particles from air. Effectively rendering the rust dormant and harmless. Treating inside the surrounding sanded area will give you a nice feather edge to work with.
D) Allow the black covering to dry the recommended amount of time. Dry times vary depending on the product and temperature. Its always best to read the can.
C) After reaching the recommended dry time, scuff the surface or the black covering with 180 grit sandpaper and follow with a red scuff pad to ensure the covering is properly scuffed and the low spots with the scratch pad. DO NOT SAND THROUGH! Sanding through the black encapsulator will negate its purpose.
E) Apply fillers as normal. Prime and paint as normal.
1/26/12
We will be providing tips here as they come to us.
We smelled a lot of paint growing up so my memory is not what it used to be, te he...
